I left Georgia with two regrets: I didn't spend nearly enough time in the country, and I didn't hike the full multi-day trail from Mestia to Ushguli.
Those regrets probably say more about the trip than anything else. In just a few days in Svaneti, we found one of the most extraordinary combinations of hiking, history, and mountain scenery I've experienced anywhere.
Our first taste came on the long journey north from Kutaisi. The road climbed through increasingly dramatic mountains, eventually crossing the Zagari Pass and delivering us into Ushguli. Set beneath enormous Caucasus peaks and filled with Svan defensive towers, livestock, stone houses, and tiny lanes, Ushguli felt startlingly removed from the modern world. Despite its UNESCO World Heritage status, it did not feel overwhelmed by tourism.
After lunch, we visited Lamaria Church, perched above the villages with tremendous views across the valley, before continuing toward Shkhara, Georgia's highest mountain. From the trailhead, we followed the river toward Shkhara Glacier, surrounded by brilliant green meadows and wildflowers while the mountain itself disappeared and reappeared behind the clouds. Just as we approached the glacier, the summit finally revealed itself. Breathtaking.
Back in Ushguli, we climbed to the ruins associated with Queen Tamar, high above the village, and then wandered back through the settlement on foot. Cows blocked the lanes. Ancient towers rose above farmhouses. Mountains enclosed everything. It was surreal, and perhaps my favorite part of the entire trip.
The following day brought another spectacular hike, this time from Mazeri toward Shdugra Waterfall beneath the twin peaks of Ushba. The trail climbed steadily through the valley with mountain views appearing almost continuously behind us. Near the waterfall, we crossed a rushing stream (wet feet included) to reach a viewpoint surrounded by some of the most dramatic scenery of the trip. From there, we could look across the Ushba valley toward Tetnuldi and the surrounding peaks.
And, because Georgia rarely lets a hike end without food, we descended to a meal of trout baked in bread, lobiani, soup, and the last of a bottle of Georgian red wine.
Between the hikes, Mestia provided a base for exploring Svan culture. Its medieval defensive towers still rise throughout the town, and climbing inside one offered a fascinating glimpse of how Svan families once lived, cooked, defended themselves, and survived long winters in this isolated corner of the Caucasus. Above town, a trip to Heshkili provided yet another panorama of the mountains—this time from a swing hanging rather alarmingly over the hillside.
Even the journey out was memorable. Rain replaced our planned final glacier hike, so we began the long drive back toward Kutaisi, stopping at the enormous Enguri Dam before gradually leaving the mountains behind.
And that's where the regret set in.
We had driven through the landscape between Ushguli and Mestia, stopping for hikes along the way. But there is a famous multi-day trek connecting the two towns, allowing hikers to travel between Svan villages on foot over several days. Looking at those mountains, towers, valleys, and tiny settlements, I couldn't shake the feeling that we should have walked it.
So Georgia goes firmly onto the list of places that demand a return visit. Next time: more days, fewer drives, and the full Mestia-to-Ushguli trek on foot.