High in the mountains between São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro lies one of Brazil’s most atmospheric historic trails: the Caminho de Ouro: the old Gold Road that once carried precious metal from the interior to the coast. Today, the trail winds through the dense Atlantic Forest, past waterfalls and remote mountain pousadas, offering a three-day journey into a quieter, wilder Brazil.
Our trip began with a long drive out of São Paulo, music blasting and snacks piled high after a frantic supermarket stop near Guarulhos. By the time we reached the mountains near São José do Barreiro, the air had cooled and the forest had closed in around the road. The adventure officially began the next morning when our driver dropped us at the park entrance and the trail disappeared into the trees.
The first day was challenging but rewarding. The path climbed through thick forest alive with birds, towering araucaria pines, and the occasional surprise, such as when two snakes slipped across the trail while we were hiking. Spirits lifted when we reached a series of waterfalls along the way, where the cool mountain water offered a welcome break from the humidity. That night we stayed at a rustic pousada deep in the forest, the last place reachable by road before the trail disappears fully into the wilderness. After a long day, beans and rice had never tasted so good.
Day two felt almost leisurely by comparison. A group rule required everyone to speak Portuguese, which led to plenty of laughter along the trail. The highlight of the day was Cachoeira dos Veados, one of the most spectacular waterfalls in the region. We swam, took photos, and even broke out into a spontaneous dance to Pabllo Vittar beside the falls. Back at the pousada, the evening ended around a bonfire with games, stories, and the sounds of the forest settling in for the night. A couple too many ghost stories would have kept us up if it wasn’t for the sore muscles after ten miles of hiking!
The final day was the most demanding. Much of the route followed the original colonial stonework. Beautiful but incredibly slow to walk, each step requiring careful footing on the uneven rocks. The miles passed gradually as we played word games and focused on the path beneath our boots. When we finally reached the end of the trail, the reward was simple and perfect: a long, refreshing swim in the river before the journey home.
Three days on the Caminho de Ouro feels like stepping into another era, walking the same stones that traders, soldiers, and mule caravans once followed through the mountains.